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meech

Junior Member
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Hey guys,

My tank has been dissassembled for the better part of 8 months now. I've recently gotten the bug to set up my 120 again and upon filling a 35 gal container of R/O water, I noticed that it was taking a lot longer to fill than it used to. It took my 4 days to fill the container.

When I called Marine Depot they mentioned that my membrane probably dried out and that I need to replace it (AT A PRICE OF $90). Before I fork over the money, I just wanted to see if there were any other less expensive options before I coughed up the money.
 

meschaefer

One to Ignore
Location
Astoria
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My understanding is that once it dries out, it is pretty much shot. Air Water Ice, has a much better price on membranes, also look at Buckye Feild Supply as I think they are a sponsor hear. Either of those places will be glad to help you, and will answer any questions that you have and alot cheaper than marine depot
 

meech

Junior Member
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Thanks for the feedback guys.

You were right, R/O membranes should only cost about $50 from what I've seen. Does it matter that these are generic membranesand not KENT MARINE membranes like my R/O unit?
 
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We are indeed a sponsor!

You'll be happy with a Filmtec membrane. What was the gpd rating of your original membrane? You may also need to replace your flow restictor.

You'll want to sanitize the system before using the water for your tank. If you need instructions on how to do that let me know.

Russ @ BFS
 
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Remember that any water in the system beyond the carbon block is nonchlorinated. RO and RODI systems are prone to the buildup on "biofilm" inside the system. To sanitize:

We recommend sanitizing your RO/DI system approximately once per year. Schedule this process at a time when you are planning to replace your cartridges. These instructions apply to water purification systems without a pressure tank. Before you begin assure that you have about an hour available, and that your work area and hands are clean.

Turn off the water supply to the system.

Remove all housings and remove all pre-filters and post-filters from the system including sediment filters, carbon filters, in-line filters, and deionization cartridges. Remove the reverse osmosis membrane(s).

Wash housings with a soft brush or cloth in warm soapy water. Rinse thoroughly to remove all soap. Don’t forget to carefully remove and wash all o-rings. Lubricate the o-rings with a small amount of silicone grease and reinstall them.

Fill each vertical housing with one cup of potable water and three to four tablespoons of household bleach, and with this sanitizing liquid still in the housings, screw them back on to the system.

Turn on the water supply a bit, allow water to fill the entire system, and assure water is flowing out of the waste line and the purified water line. Place the outlet of the drain tube and purified water tube slightly higher than the system to assure these tubes are full of the sanitizing solution. When the sanitizing solution has reached the outlet of each tube, and with the outlet of each tube placed above the rest of the system, shut off the water supply for 30 minutes.

After 30 minutes, turn the water supply on and assure that water exits the system from both the drain tube and the purified water port. Flush the sanitizing solution from the system for 5 to 10 minutes.

Turn off the water supply and install new filters.

We recommend keeping a maintenance record for your system. Record the date of the sanitizing and filter replacement.
 

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